Insights on Travel from Costa Rica Expeditions’ Founder Michael Kaye and his Expert Friends.

What is the first place to visit to find out about a new country? Back to Cuba Again. Part #3

In last weeks post I promised to tell you how an ex downhill racer from Canada ended up marrying an ex international road bike racer from Cuba and how I got from talking to Mirley Macqueen and her mother in the Bike Shop parking lot in PEI to lying in a barber chair with a straight razor on my Adam’s apple in Santiago, Cuba.

To do so I have to introduce another character, Danny’s father, Gordon Macqueen. And I use the word character, advisedly. Gordon is an intrepid entrepreneur.  I have been accused of the same disease, but compared to Gordon I’m timid.

Over our five-week stay in PEI the story slowly come out about how in the early 90’s Gordon heard the Chinese had donated a million Flying Pigeon Bicycles to Cuba. He set off to Cuba, his children in tow to set up a bicycle parts importing business.

As a result of that and subsequent trips Gordon found that Cubans make parts; they do not import them; Danny found Mirley; his sister, Kristen found her Cuban, husband, Abel; and the MacQueen family founded WOWCuba, the premier upscale tour operator in Cuba.

WOWCuba’s signature trip is “La Vuelta de Cuba,” a bus supported bicycle trip that goes from Santiago in the Southeast not to far from Guantanamo to Havana some 470 miles to the Northwest, which explains what I was doing in that barber chair in Santiago with a straight razor on my Adam’s Apple.


Gordon being intrepid.

The first place you should visit to find out about a new country is a local barbershop or beauty salon.  The operative word is local.  In shops that cater to tourists you may learn about the other tourists but you will probably not learn much about the place you are visiting.

Photo: Wikimedia Commons.

The first thing you learn when you go to a local barber or beauty shop is where the country stands on Michael’s Comprehensive Hospitality Index (CHI), which has only one parameter.

1.   Do they invite you to jump the line and get served ahead of the locals.  (It is impolite and insensitive to refuse.)

So far Cuba scores a perfect three out of three on the CHI. They shave good too.

What astounded me at the barbershop was the barber’s reply when I asked him how much I owed. He said, “Whatever you want.”

“How much do Cubans pay?”  I asked.

“They don’t pay,” he answered. “They have tickets.”

I can date my fascination with Cuba to that moment. I had read all my good friend’s Chris Baker’s books about Cuba, but now for the first time in my life I was in a place where private enterprise hardly existed.

I remarked on it to Yolanda.  She said, “Cuban’s are ambitious.  I won’t last.”

I replied that it had lasted for some forty years. (Fidel Castro nationalized small businesses in 1968.

She looked doubtful.

Afterwards we sat on a bench in El Parque Cespedes in the center of Santiago and watched the world go by.

A couple of art students and furtively offered us drawings for sale.  We bought three.  It seemed like capitalism was not completely dead in Cuba.

“¡See!”  Yolanda said triumphantly.

In April 2010 Cuba privatized barbershops and beauty parlors with three or fewer seats.

Here are the three drawings. I can’t remember the artists’ names and would not want to use them any way.

In my next weeks post on Cuba I’ll tell you about what was so neat about getting bumped out the Casa Granda Hotel in Santiago.

Trivia Question Contest:

Years ago when barbers in the states still shaved I asked a barber how they practiced.  He told me they practiced on peaches.  If they could shave off the fuzz without cutting the skin, they are ready for people.  In Cuba and other tropical countries peaches are too rare to be used for shaving practice.

What did the Cuban barber tell me he used for practice?

I’ll send a bag of gourmet Costa Rican Coffee to the first three persons who write a comment with the correct answer.

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Cecilia said:

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Fatima said:

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Lindsey said:

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • comment va ? Je m’appelle Luce.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Je suis agée de 28 ans .
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Mon métier, directrice d’hôtel . Est-ce un défaut d’être blagueuse ?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Blop, Je me nomme Fauna.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Je suis une jeune fille de 34 printemps .
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          je suis actuellement des études de chauffeur de
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          bus . Si je suis parfois blagueuse, ce n’est pas pour autant un défaut ?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • Je viens de fêter mon 22ième anniversaire. !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Mon nom est Rosemarie.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            je fais un stage de agent de propreté urbaine . Il est dit que je semble une vraie pomme.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • Blop, Je suis une jeune fille de quarante et
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              un printemps !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Joséphine à votre service
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              je suis des études de comédienne . Mes amies disent
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              souvent que je suis blagueuse.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Je viens de fêter mon quarante-cinqième anniversaire.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                .
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Mes parents m’ont appellée Amélie et j’aime beaucoup ce prénom.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Je suis notaire … On dit que je parais farceuse.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • hello, Je m’appelle Amber.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  J’ai trente-neuf ans !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  J’ai repris mes études pour etre ingénieur . Il est dit souvent de moi que je suis drole.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • At June 17, 2013
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    10:04:13 am
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Dan said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    bonjour Mes parents m’ont appellée Jeanette et j’aime beaucoup ce
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    prénom.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Je viens de fêter mon 28ième anniversaire. , je ne fait pas de complexe là dessus .

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Mon occupation principale, billettiste … Il est dit
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    souvent de moi que je parais marrante.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • hey ! Je porte le joli nom de Durandana.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      J’ai quarante-neufA , et j’assume totalement !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      je suis en ce moment des études de professeur dans le privé !
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Est-ce un défaut d’être réservée ?

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • At October 11, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                2:57:04 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                dk said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                this is a wonderful story about the nature of travel, about the uses of an intrepid spirit (in travel and business) and about cuba, too. a lot is conveyed quite economically. i love the drawings. especially the musicians. and now i will venture a guess: the cuban barbers practiced shaving on a tennis ball… preferably an old, used, already worn down one (and therefore requiring a steadier hand). i am presuming old tennis balls are not hard to find (and certainly less precious than peaches).

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • At April 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  9:30:12 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  don said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The family dog, or a neighbor’s.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  • At April 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    1:05:25 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    tim said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    mangos??? the answer to your question

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • At April 06, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      7:29:46 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Jules said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Alright….last try… a soccer ball.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    • At April 05, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      2:12:12 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Jules said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Since it’s not a balloon I’m going to go with a fruit that you can find in Cuba. Is it a mamoncillo or a brown-skinned mamey?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • At April 05, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        3:34:51 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Michael Kaye replied
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to Jules:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Nope. Keep trying. You’ll kick yourself when I finally give the answer. Hint: It is not a fruit or vegetable.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      • At March 23, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        3:52:30 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        judie apple said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        how about a kiwi? i just had some when i visited costa rica…maybe in cuba too? ( i love cafe britt light roast…jsut in case).

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • At March 23, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          11:55:17 am
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Cheryl Schiarizzi said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          I think it’s either a coconut or kiwi. Love your posts, BTW.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Best to you, Cheryl

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          • At March 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            6:35:39 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            steve said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            I was thinking of balloons myself..
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            By the way.. some useless information about Cuban coffee..
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Cuba is, with Haiti, the first coffee producing country in the Americas..It has a long coffee tradition that was exported to Miami (without the coffee due the embargo.. Ecuadors are the sub)..
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            ..
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            During Castro, it was a better business to export every bean they could find.. especially since the Europeans loved the political context in addition to the quality.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Sooo.. what do Cubans drink?? Mostly rejects from other latin american countries.. fo ryears it was the biggest export market for Costa Rica’s rejected culls and underripe beans..–Brazil has replaced CR as a big Cuban supplier..

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • At April 05, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              3:42:53 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Michael Kaye replied
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              to steve:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Even at the best hotels where you can get food not available to ordinary Cubans, like beef and lobster, the coffee is not that good. We bring Cafe Britt to give to friends.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Another thing that surprised us that you cannot get in Cuba is hot sauce. We always bring a couple of bottles for the table. Yolanda likes the Costa Rican brand with the funny straw hat on the cap. Can’t remember what it is called.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            • At March 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              5:58:55 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Brian said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              A coconut?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • At March 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                3:30:58 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Max said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                I hope the answer is not “the family dog.” Probably a lot of ugly dogs walking around in that case.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                • At March 22, 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  2:01:01 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Kristen said:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Would it be one of the state condoms that double as balloons for kids’ birthday parties, lathered up in soap perhaps? Just a wild guess Michael. No idea if I’m right or not!